Many of the military rifles that end of in shooters hands are a little bit above  wall hangers said to be good shooters, but often  come with defects that make them inaccurate at best or dangerous to use at the worst. Others can be functional and fine as well as perfectly safe but have features that make them a real pain to use and feel terrible with hard to use sights or controls.

Beyond the rifles basic condition of looks some military rifles have problems that make them a lot less than desirable from a practical shooting stand point. Even though the rifles came from the world’s leading military powers at the time, the rifles can often have metallurgical or design flaws in rifles from certain time ranges of their production runs.   Low number M1903s and certain Krags being an example. Not to mention some are just bad ideas that came misguided military thinking. On top of that are rifles that can not be fired for lack of the now very rare ammo it takes to feed them.

When buying a surplus military rifle from a FFL or gun show the first thing you  should do is look at the bore. If possible by pulling the bolt and pointing the muzzle at a bright light. Do not let the fact that the bore is nice and shiny trick you. Do to the magic of abrasives, many pitted bores have been brought to fool the unknowing.   Look at the lands. It is the appearance of the lands that tells the tale when it comes to the  condition of the bore. They will be flat on top and nice and sharp at their upper and lower corners. Other than that, slugging a bore will tell you of the barrel is within spec or has been polished with abrasives to hone its appearance for casual inspection from possible buyers.

A shot out barrel with make the gun inaccurate and near useless though very rarely make the gun unsafe to shoot. head-space on the other hand is another matter,  Usually the result of a large chamber from wear or sloppy manufacture. Military rifles often have large chambers for reasons of function, but a rifle that will swallow a No-Go or filed gauge is not normal and is something you are risking harm with.  Another issue are triggers.  Usually military rifle triggers and very heavy but reliable. They can be effectively used with practice.   Some however had sear let off that was all over the board and could not be counted on to work the same way twice. Miss matched parts, worn  sear interface or problems with the cocking piece  or bolt.

Following are some of the more common military rifles found on the market popular with shooters and some of the issues to watch out for.

M1903-Springfield-Rifle

The springfield M1903 has a history of manufacture that is recounted in enough places and books to make the head swim so I am not going to go into it here. High on the list is the well known issue with heat treatment on the early production of the M1903.  The poorly done heat treatment left the receivers brittle  and failures of the parts when in use.  Sometimes shattering or breaking when tapped slightly by a metal rod.  The problem is encountered in rifles numbered below  800,000. these rifles are very suspect and it is not worth the risk of shooting, Some may have been treated in a way to make them safe, but there is no way to tell and best to not be fired.  The same problem exists with the rifles produced by Rock Island below 285,507. Most of these low numbered springfields were taken out of service a long time ago but they do show up at gun stores and gun shows, I have seen one turn up and a large show and a guns show in the past 10 years with both sellers having no idea ( or pretending not to know) the guns are unsafe to shoot no matter how good they looked. There is also a largish number of these rifles that were turned into “sporters” during years past and they should not be fired no matter how lucky the owner of the rifle may have been with it.

Another problem with the M1903 is the two piece firing pin which tends to break in a way that the tip protrudes from the bolt face. This condition can cause a primer to fire before the bolt lugs have engaged and lock the bolt into battery. An after market one piece firing pin can be bought to cure this issue easily.  One design issue I have rarely hear mentioned is the knurled bolt knob.  It should never be used to lower  by hand to decock the gun on a loaded chamber  This allows the firing pin to rest against the primer creating the risk of a discharge, Most custom gunsmith would remove this when making a custom sporter rifle from the ’03.

enfield

the M1917 Enfield rifle another popular rifle based on the British 1914 originally in .303 caliber, the rifle was chambered in 30.06 and issued to US troops to supplement and ended up being the rifle more widely issued during WW1.  While it is ugly in some eyes. The large rear sight protecting hoods and the dog legged bolt being the biggest eye sore to some, the rifle is very tough and strong with some being chambered in large dangerous game cartridges. Many found in modern times will show very heavy use with badly worn bores.  Usually the rifles with gun bores will out shoot the over rated M1903. The rear peep sight is much easier to use and is faster to use in fast combat conditions.  The rear peep is a great aid to those whose eye sight is less than perfect.

027

the Type 99 Arisaka is the most under appreciate military bolt action rifle out there.   Very strong and tough, PO Ackley’s destructive testing found the Type 99 to be the strongest military bolt action of them all. The 99 features a very strange but effective safety that requires you to press and turn with the palm to engage and disengage. While it sounds strange, with a few tries it very easy to get the hang of and is faster than some other safeties from the time.  The stock looks like a reject 2×4 from the local drunken saw mill operator with what appears to be a crack in the stock.  The “crack” was done one purpose and make the butt stock two piece and very strong in a clever design.  Many like to joke about the rear sight that folds and has wings that fold out for hitting moving aircraft.  The rear is very good in my opinion other than the  useless anti aircraft side folding features.   While it is further forward than a good rear peep, it does have a aperture rear sight that is large and fast to use, For further shots, you can fold it up in the ladder style like the M1903 with a smaller peep and markings for range.   The 7.7 Jap rounds is in the same power range as the 303 Brit round and can give fine results when hand-loaded with match .311 bullets,.   Price for factory ammo can run extreme or hand-loading.  Original ammo is pretty much collector stuff and very pricey.   One great feature on the Type 99 is the chrome lined bore. The finish is often rough with tool marks  but it can be very well done and beautiful.   In this case looks can fool you because if the Arisaka is in good condition , it is one of the best shooting military rifles.

6 Comments

  1. Dyspeptic Gunsmith's avatar Dyspeptic Gunsmith says:

    The 1917 Enfield rifles have indeed been made into some very nice sporting rifles. The largest chambering I’ve seen one modified for was the .505 Gibbs.

    The most consistently tight-grouping milsurp rifle I’ve seen is the Swiss K31.

    1903A3 Springfields are a good start for making a sporter rifle – think of them as a small-ring Mauser action, and keep your cartridge choices appropriate. The big gripe about the 030A3 is the stamped sheet metal magazine/trigger bow.

    Well, if you’re making a full-on conversion, don’t worry about it. Toss the bottom metal and buy new bottom metal that is machined and finished in the white from Sunny Hill, or go buy 1903 bottom metal and put it under the 03A3 action.

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    1. John M.'s avatar John M. says:

      Is there a good practical reason why one would start a custom sporter from a milsurp action these days versus something COTS or a full custom?

      My general impression is that it was done in the old days because the milsurp guns were cheap as water and as good a place to start as any. Nowadays it seems like the collector/nostalgia value of a milsurp rifle must outrun the practical value, but I would be interested in your $.02 on it.

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      1. Dyspeptic Gunsmith's avatar Dyspeptic Gunsmith says:

        Yes, there are practical reasons. I’ll give you two:

        First, most WWII milsurp actions (Mauser M98, 1903, 1917 Enfield – basically any rifle using a ’06 or 8mm Mauser round) were long actions. Today, many (perhaps even most) new bolt actions sold are short (.308-length) actions.

        The 1917 Enfield rifles were long actions that had great gobs of steel in their action, and could be modified to fit .375 H&H-length cartridges (ie, what we call “magnum-length” cartridges) without compromising the safety of the action. Fitting a magnum-length cartridge into a short (.308) length isn’t possible – you’d end up cutting through the front ring to a point where the action is nearly cleaved on the bottom. The metal being removed is to enable the cartridge to feed up from the magazine.

        You can purchase magnum-length actions today, but you’re going to pay for them, and the selection will be limited. Most custom actions are, like the Remington 700, available in predominately short and long actions.

        Some custom gunsmiths use pre-64 Winchester 70 rifle actions, which were available in short, long and magnum actions.

        Second, many (most?) hunters of dangerous game prefer the Mauser-style extractor and controlled-round feeding of the Mauser-style extractors. Most custom rifle actions available today are Rem700-footprint actions. These work well for precision rifles, benchrest rifles, varmint rifles. When we get to dangerous game rifles, lots of hunters prefer a Win70, Mauser 98, 1903, 1917, or other claw-extractor action. The factory Rem700 action has a pretty cheesy extractor, and the solutions to this are to machine the head of the bolt and install a M16/AR15 or Sako-style extractor, both of which are “meh…” solutions. A better solution would be the post-64 Winchester style extractor, if we’re going to have a non-Mauser extractor.

        OK, so what about new M98-style actions? There are new-production Mauser-clone actions available in the custom market, but they’re ferociously expensive. Here’s one example:

        https://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/products.php?cat=387

        I’ve seen Granite Mountain actions at $2500 and up, and German-manufactured actions from $4K up. This is just the action sometimes, ie, it might not include the bottom metal.

        So there’s still an economic reason for using a milsurp actions in some custom rifles. The 1917 requires lots of work, but it’s quite strong, very slick in handling, and has lots of steel.

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        1. Shawn's avatar Shawn says:

          do you mean pre 64 style actions? The True Winchester made pre 64 model 70 action was only made in ” long action” or also known as “standard length “

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          1. Dyspeptic Gunsmith's avatar Dyspeptic Gunsmith says:

            Yes, externally, there was only one length, “standard” or .30-06 length.

            But… there were modifications to the bolt and lockup for shorter cartridges (dealing with blocking the magazine in the front or rear, and setting up the bolt for a shorter throw and modifying the ejector). ’06-length magnum cartridges had a different sized bolt face modifications to the magazine/feed lips for “short-fat” cartridges.

            The .375 H&H receivers had longer magazines and bottom metal, then there was material removed at the bottom rear of the front ring to allow the cartridge to feed up from the magazine, and the ejection port on the receiver was lengthened for allowing .375 H&H length cartridges to eject cleanly. This removal of material necessitated moving the rear scope mount holes closer together on the rear bridge.

            I’m sure I’m forgetting some of the mods that Model 70 had between the three cartridge classes. In effect, what you have to do to a pre-64 Model 70 to make it work with H&H magnum cartridges is very similar to what you had to do to a Mauser 98 or 1917 Enfield. It’s just easier if you buy a magnum-length action/magazine/bottom metal setup.

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        2. John M.'s avatar John M. says:

          Thanks, DG. That’s all very interesting.

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